GitHub is home to over 50 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. Problem: if I choose seam position "aligned" it does not align all seams like original slic3r does, but instead it works exactly the same as "nearest" option.
It's easy to reproduce, just select "aligned" setting and print. Current original slic3r with the same "aligned" setting and the same config prints these seams correctly. Can't upload zip file. Anyway, it seems to happens with any config settings, just try to turn on "aligned" option. I have to look into that, but the issue is deeper. The "aligned" seam never worked, the code keeps only a single "seam" value per object slice, so if you had multiple islands, they were only aligned by a pure luck the strategy "take the closest point to the last print head position often worked".
So the "aligned" seem was really mostly useful for the vase prints IMHO. I personally think it that Slic3r excels in the automatic placement of the seam and a good extension would to paint the seam line on the object where the seam cannot be hidden usually on round objects. Where there are concave or convex corners, one is best to let Slic3r put the seams there. Only if there is no such spot on the object, then some form of manual intervention is needed. Not only for the vase, but for some other objects too.
Like simple geometric objects, for example. I can't insert photos right now because I left all these 20 mm test cubes at work, but cubes with "aligned" options are really smooth while cubes with "nearest" have regular saw-like pattern on every vertical edge and it shows on flat sides too And even if some option works sometimes it's good to have it than to have nothing Well, apparently, sometimes it does not.
And since the seam can't be completely eliminated, may be it's better to implement another feature from S3D -- it has an option to specify x and y point for the seam, so it tries to place the seam closest to that point.
I spent several hours trying to figure out why I was getting a sawtooth pattern on my cubes, when I finally realized that: 1 my printer is over-extruding when unretracting, and 2 Slic3r is not aligning the seams.
With a 2x2x1 cm cube, every layer starts at a different corner. Hopefully fixed by 82aed The way it works now is following: Slic3r will add some negative penalty to all perimeter points near the last seam. Once the perimeter point with minimum penalty is found, its penalty is compared to a point closest to the last seam.
If the penalty of the point closest to the last seam is nearly as good as the minimum penalty, the point closest to the last seam is picked instead. This heuristics will hide the seams into corners if possible, but if not possible, it will strive to align the seams precisely. We use optional third-party analytics cookies to understand how you use GitHub. Learn more.Even though both the Original Prusa i3 3D printers and the SL1 are based on the same core concept, additive manufacturing, they produce objects in a different manner.
The MK3S and its predecessors extrude melted plastic, while the SL1 cures liquid resin to create solid objects, which are in fact printed upside down. No matter how many and how complex objects there are on the print platform, the exposure times are constant throughout the print — with the exception of the first ten layers, which take slightly longer to finish. In other words, printing a tall object will take less time, if you lay it flat on the printing platform.
The print time will always be the number of layers multiplied by the exposure time of a single layer. You can also decrease the print time by increasing the layer height — thicker layers will result in a lower number of total layers per object. We recommend sticking to 0.
Layers and perimeters
Layer heights of 0. Not every resin is suitable for every layer height — PrusaSlicer contains a library of tested resins and compatible layer heights.
You can check out our selection of resins on our e-shop. The first step towards a successful print is the object orientation. The SL1 can deal with massive overhangs and parts starting mid-air thanks to strong thin supports, which are easy to remove once the print finishes.
There are some benefits to good object orientation, though, like shorter printing times see chapter above. Also, you might have noticed that SLA prints are often placed at a degree angle. There are several reasons for this — some of them are technology-specific better anti-aliasingsome of them are purely practical tilted objects cover a larger area, so the supports under these objects are spread out more evenly.
Certain manufacturers are using silicone-based films on the bottom of the tank, which requires the user to avoid printing in the same spot because the film could deteriorate very quickly.
Another reason to find an optimal object orientation: we want to avoid large flat horizontal surfaces — the forces required to separate a large flat area from the bottom of the tank are much higher than those required to separate a small layer.
You would have to add dozens of supports under such an area. In short: letting the objects grow gradually under an angle is usually the safest way to achieve good-looking prints.
However, as you saw in the previous chapter, some objects can be placed directly on the printing platform to achieve better results.This is the first alpha release of PrusaSlicer 2. To let you enjoy the alpha without worries, the alpha builds save their profiles into PrusaSlicer-alpha directory, so you may use the alpha side by side with the current release without ruining your production configuration.
Complete description of improvements and changes with respect to the current PrusaSlicer 2. For quite a long time already, PrusaSlicer provides support enforcers and blockers so the user has control over support generation. While this method works, it is not a pleasure to work with and manipulating the blocks where the user wants them is quite tedious. This release brings a tool to simply paint the areas where supports should be enforced or blocked, directly on the object.
The tool is available from the left toolbar and is only shown in Advanced and Expert modes. After selecting an object and clicking the toolbar icon, all other objects are hidden so they do not obscure the view, the selected object is rendered in light gray to ensure contrast and the painting tool is activated. Left mouse button enforces supports, right button blocks them.
Drop files to upload
The size of the painting tool can be adjusted, as well as a cursor type: circular cursor paints all visible places inside the circle, possibly leaving unpainted areas in shaded areas, but never painting behind corners.
Spherical cursor paints everything inside the sphere regardless of whether it is visible or not. You can also use the clipping plane tool to hide a part of the object, so that difficult to reach areas can be easily painted. The Autoset by angle button allows to select all triangles that are "more horizontal" than a threshold. This can be used as a default for further manual editing to ensure that no overhangs are left unsupported. The overhang triangles are visualized in real-time while the threshold is being adjusted.
Do not forget to enable supports if you want to actually generate them. When left unchecked, supports will be generated for support enforcers only:.Testing Simplify3D Coast and Wipe Settings on Prusa i3 MK2 and Creality CR10
If Auto-generated supports checkbox is checked, supports will be generated automatically, just not inside support blockers. This can be used to remove supports that are not necessary:. Seams are inherent to FDM printing and they can negatively affect visual appearance of the model.
PrusaSlicer always provided limited possibility to customize the seam placement in Print Settings to optimize for short travel moves, to keep the seams aligned on between successive layers, to randomize seam position along the contour, or to place it to the back of the model.
The last option allows rudimentary manual control of seam placement by rotating the model on the build plate. In addition, PrusaSlicer always tried to hide the seams into share concave or convex corners and seam was never placed on an overhang. This release introduces a new manual seam placement tool to provide more detailed control over the seam placement. The tool is accessible from the left toolbar and it is only shown in Advanced and Expert modes.
After clicking on the icon, the user can paint 'Seam enforcers' or 'Seam blockers' on the model in a similar to how the new custom supports are painted. The seam logic is the same as it was in previous releases, except that if there is a seam enforcer, it always places seams into the enforcer area. If there is a blocker, its area is excluded from possible seam candidates.
The Nearest, Rear and Random options are still respected. When the Aligned option is active and enforcers are used, the seam is placed in the middle of the enforcer area.
This allows to draw smooth seams over the model.Thank you for your time. A seam of some sort is impossible to avoid with current fused filament printers.
There are various options in the slicer you can select to alter the position of the seam, like random, aligned, rear, etc. Normally the slicer on the default setting will try and hide the seam in the corners like it has done of the exterior of your pictured slice preview. However with a cylinder there aren't any corners. Personally I prefer them lined up like that as its easy to ream the holes out afterwards and smooth them out with with a drill bit or a proper hole reamer if you have one to get the hole true to size.
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Prusa Slicer 2. Last Post. New Member. I'm trying to get rid of a stubborn vertical seam in slicer 2. There must be a way to hide it somehow I just haven't figured it out.
Log in to be able to post. Noble Member. Illustrious Member. Vase Mode Or use random seams on a well calibrated printer. This post was modified 1 year ago by Tim. It is always wise to get more than one opinion All forum topics. Previous Topic. Next Topic. Forum Statistics.Unless the material being extruded has a very high viscosity it will ooze from the nozzle in between extrusions. There are several settings in Slic3r to which can help to remedy this.
The retraction settings, found in the Extruder section of Printer tab, tell the printer to pull back the filament between extrusion moves. This can alleviate the pressure in the nozzle, thus reducing ooze.
After the subsequent travel move the retraction is reversed to prepare the extruder for the next extrusion. Length - The number of millimeters to retract.
Note that the measurement is taken from the raw filament entering the extruder. A value of between 1 and 2mm is usually recommended. Bowden extruders may need up to 4 or 5mm due to the hysteresis introduced by the tube. Lift Z - Raises the entire extruder on the Z axis by that many millimeters during each travel. This can be useful to ensure the nozzle will not catch on any already laid filament, however it is usually not necessary and will slow the print speed. A value of 0.
Speed - The speed at which the extruder motor will pull back the filament. The value should be set to as quick as the extruder can handle without skipping steps, and it is worth experimenting with this value to find the quickest retraction possible.
Extra length on restart - Adds an extra length of filament after the retraction is compensated after the travel move. This setting is rarely used, however should the print show signs of not having enough material after travel moves then it may be useful to add a small amount of additional material. Minimum travel after retraction - Triggering a retraction after very short moves is usually unnecessary as the amount of ooze is usually insignificant and it slows down the print times.
Set the number of millimeters minimum distance the nozzle must move before considering a retraction. If the printer handles ooze well this can be increased to 5 or 6mm.
Retract on layer change - Movement along the Z axis must also be considered when dealing with oozing, otherwise blobs may occur. It is recommended to leave this setting on. Wipe before retract - Moves the nozzle whilst retracting so as to reduce the chances of a blob forming.
Additionally there are several settings in the Print tab which can help control oozing. Only retract when crossing perimeters Infill - Tells Slic3r to only retract if the nozzle will cross the threshold of the current island being extruded.
Slight ooze within the walls of a part are not seen and can usually be accepted. Avoid crossing perimeters Layers and perimeters - Advanced - Will force the nozzle to follow perimeters as much as possible to minimise the number of times it must cross them when moving around, and between, islands.
This has a negative impact on both G-code generation and print times. See also section : Sequential Printing for another technique which can minimise strings forming between objects. Retraction settings.PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for your Original Prusa 3D printer.
PrusaSlicer is available for Windows, Mac and Linux. Get PrusaSlicer now! Full release log and the latest unstable builds on Github. PrusaSlicer is based on Slic3r by Alessandro Ranellucci. It's completely free and open-source.
Thanks to the strong community and core team of developers in Prusa Research we can continually add new functionality. You can follow the development process on Github.
Slic3r was always known to be powerful and versatile, but some features were difficult to use, if not outright hidden behind obscure menus and dialogs.
Our goal with the reworked UI was to expose all the power features while making the UI clear and simple to use at the same time. PrusaSlicer lets you create support blockers and enforcers. With support enforcers, you can turn automatic supports off and select specific parts which need supports.
We are adding profiles on regular basis, following materials by the most popular manufacturers. You will get new profiles automatically through auto-update function. In PrusaSlicer, you can select the layer height for each part of the object separately. Our software takes care of smoothing so the final print looks best as it can and the printing time remains acceptable.
Check out the video. PrusaSlicer includes built-in firmware flasher for Original Prusa i3 printers. You can just connect your printer to computer via USB cable and easily flash the firmware via PrusaSlicer. Don't forget to upgrade your printer regularly!
You can prepare prints with color change directly in PrusaSlicer. With Octoprint application, you can control your printer via web browser. PrusaSlicer is now supporting advanced features of Octoprint like upload queue or Cancelobject plugin, which allows you to cancel printing of one particular object on the print bed. Smart and compact 3D printer for everyone! Learn more about PrusaSlicer features in our detailed documentation. Video guides. Main features. HiDPI support — Correct scaling on high-resolution displays Manipulation of multiple objects - group selection Background processing — redesigned to work reliably, only those slicing steps that were invalidated by the user action will be re-sliced Repairing models via Netfabb only on Windows Wipe into infill, wipe into object in MMU mode Soluble interface supports Multi-language support: English, French, Italian, German, Spanish, Czech, Polish, Ukrainian, Korean, Chinese Simplified.
Found a bug? Let us know on Github or via community forum.Matthew Harrison - Jul 19 I've recently been researching a lot about methods of reducing the visibility of seams in 3D prints. Commonly referred to as layer seams, z seams, blobs, zits, or scarring, the marks appear on prints either in a line or scattered around the model depending on slicer settings.
An example can be seen above on this cylinder. It's a universal problem for FDM printing and there have been a lot of different methods introduced into slicing software to hide it. The most common of these are coast, wipe, and of course spiral vase mode, but some slicers have their own special ways of dealing with it too.
Here we will discuss how and why these seams occur, and what you can do about it. Ironically, the most common names for these marks on prints aren't actually accurate. Layer seam, layer change seam and z seam imply that it occurs when the printer moves up to the next layer, however this is not the case. This can of course be confirmed by viewing a gcode preview, or even just watching the printer as it operates.
From this we can see that the layer change actually occurs on the inside of the model where the infill ends, as that is the last part to be printed on any one layer. Not important to the topic of seams, but perhaps of interest are the reasons why this order for the process of printing a layer is used. Firstly - why perimeters and then infill? Printing the perimeters first gives the infill something to adhere to on the edges as it is extruded. It acts as a containment area for all the infill to keep within.
You can imagine that when printing at high speeds, it's very important that the plastic has something to stick to on the edges to keep its shape. Again, this order is chosen to ensure that extruded plastic has something to adhere to as its printed.
On parts that have overhangs, a fraction of the width of the outer perimeter is not printing directly on top of anything, so it helps to have something next to it to stick to. Consider for example a model printed at 0.
At a 45 degree overhang, two thirds of the width of the outer perimeter would be printing over air, leaving just one third of this width 0.
And what is it attaching to? Not just the layer below, but also the previous inner perimeter loop for that layer. This becomes especially important as the overhang angle becomes steeper. At an overhang of around 34 degrees, the entire outer perimeter would be printing with nothing below it. If this perimeter was printed first, it would simply fall down hopefully onto support material and not attach to the print at all.
If it has a perimeter beside it to stick to though, then it will remain attached to the rest of the print. I've attached an illustration of this example below:. So if these markings are not caused by layer changes like we originally thought, what actually does cause it? The answer is that it's just the point at the beginning and end of a perimeter.